Saturday, March 8, 2014
With Fall Just Around the Corner Extend Your Outdoor Living with a Fire Pit
Im starting to see more and more articles referencing the emergence of fall as summer draws to a close. With fall, comes shorter days, cooler nights and hint of a chill in the air. As more and more people are "stay-cationing" these days due to the economy and an ever tightening budget, one way to enhance your outdoor living space is by creating a focal point in the backyard, a gathering spot for entertaining friends, and what better way to bring people together and keep them warm than with a custom fire pit.
Fire pits are a natural conversation piece and as people gather around and gaze into the hypnotizing flame, conversation is a just another part of the fun. Humans have been gathering around the open flame for thousands upon thousands of years. Fire pits also help to extend your time spent outdoors in the fall as the nights grow a bit chillier. You will be able to enjoy the outdoors longer in the season and entertain family and friends while enjoying your outdoor living room.
While we specialize in, and recommend, custom Crossfire Burner Systems which burn natural gas or propane, we also have some videos here for your benefit so you can see how to build fire pits yourself. We also offer custom fire pit kits which have everything you will need to install a fire pit yourself so you can start entertaining with your new backyard focal point in no time. If you have any questions about fire pit installation or safety, dont hesitate to contact us and we will be happy to help.
Stay warm out there this fall by bringing a warm glow to your patio!
Read More..
Fire pits are a natural conversation piece and as people gather around and gaze into the hypnotizing flame, conversation is a just another part of the fun. Humans have been gathering around the open flame for thousands upon thousands of years. Fire pits also help to extend your time spent outdoors in the fall as the nights grow a bit chillier. You will be able to enjoy the outdoors longer in the season and entertain family and friends while enjoying your outdoor living room.
While we specialize in, and recommend, custom Crossfire Burner Systems which burn natural gas or propane, we also have some videos here for your benefit so you can see how to build fire pits yourself. We also offer custom fire pit kits which have everything you will need to install a fire pit yourself so you can start entertaining with your new backyard focal point in no time. If you have any questions about fire pit installation or safety, dont hesitate to contact us and we will be happy to help.
Stay warm out there this fall by bringing a warm glow to your patio!
Friday, March 7, 2014
loll rockers chaises
A long row of chairs, Adirondacks, rockers or chaises aloft an expansive lake view is a good setting for relaxing with friends. The long row of loll adirondack chaises ($1259) on a Chicago Rooftop is an informal venue that facilitates relaxation, being outdoors and socializing. The idea of being somewhat isolated, with somewhere to gaze in good company is very appealing to me as is the idea of inserting modern design in rustic surroundings.
 |
| loll adirondack rocker ($660) |
Photographs Courtesy of Loll Designs
Dusty Zenobia
Zenobia pulverulenta
A slow to moderate growing, upright, deciduous to semi-evergreen shrub, reaching up to 6 x 4 ( averaging only 3 x 4 ) feet, that is native to mountains in the southeast U.S. from Virginia south to South Carolina. Some records include: fastest growth rate - 2.5 feet; 10 years - 4 x 4 feet; largest on record - 13 x 13 feet.
The ovate to narrow-elliptical leaves are up to 3 inches in length.
The leaves are spirally arranged around the stem. The powdery blue foliage has long lasting, intense yellow to red autumn foliage color often persists into December or even most of the winter in mild climates.
The sweetly-ragrant, white, nodding, bell-shaped flowers, up to 0.5 x 0.5 inches, are borne on heads of up to 20 during late spring to early summer. The flowers resemble that of Lily of the Valley.
Hardy zones 5 to 8 ( tolerating -20 F on a protected site ) in partial shade ( tolerates sun if not reflected ) on consistantly moist, cool, humus-rich, well drained, acidic soil. Generally east to grow; typical upland woodland conditions in the eastern U.S. are generally suitable, if you unsure about you soil conditions, just mix in a few bags of peat moss and leaf compost before planting. Mulch with bark and feed lightly with cottonseed meal during early May. Zenobia is the lone species in the Zenobia genus, it is part of the larger Ericaceae family which includes Rhododendrons and Azaleas. It also enjoys growing conditions similar to that of Rhodies and Azaleas. Dusty Zenobia grows wild in southern pine woods and does very well in these conditions, even where other plants will not.
Pruning can be done immediately after flowering but is rarely needed other than any shaping if desired.
Propagation can be achieved from seed, suckers, rooted layers or cuttings taken during summer.
* photo of unknown internet source
Blue Sky
Very blue foliage.
Woodlanders Blue
A selection with exceptionally blue or silvery-blue foliage that colors intensely during autumn.
Read More..
A slow to moderate growing, upright, deciduous to semi-evergreen shrub, reaching up to 6 x 4 ( averaging only 3 x 4 ) feet, that is native to mountains in the southeast U.S. from Virginia south to South Carolina. Some records include: fastest growth rate - 2.5 feet; 10 years - 4 x 4 feet; largest on record - 13 x 13 feet.
The ovate to narrow-elliptical leaves are up to 3 inches in length.
The leaves are spirally arranged around the stem. The powdery blue foliage has long lasting, intense yellow to red autumn foliage color often persists into December or even most of the winter in mild climates.
The sweetly-ragrant, white, nodding, bell-shaped flowers, up to 0.5 x 0.5 inches, are borne on heads of up to 20 during late spring to early summer. The flowers resemble that of Lily of the Valley.
Hardy zones 5 to 8 ( tolerating -20 F on a protected site ) in partial shade ( tolerates sun if not reflected ) on consistantly moist, cool, humus-rich, well drained, acidic soil. Generally east to grow; typical upland woodland conditions in the eastern U.S. are generally suitable, if you unsure about you soil conditions, just mix in a few bags of peat moss and leaf compost before planting. Mulch with bark and feed lightly with cottonseed meal during early May. Zenobia is the lone species in the Zenobia genus, it is part of the larger Ericaceae family which includes Rhododendrons and Azaleas. It also enjoys growing conditions similar to that of Rhodies and Azaleas. Dusty Zenobia grows wild in southern pine woods and does very well in these conditions, even where other plants will not.
Pruning can be done immediately after flowering but is rarely needed other than any shaping if desired.
Propagation can be achieved from seed, suckers, rooted layers or cuttings taken during summer.
* photo of unknown internet source
Blue Sky
Very blue foliage.
Woodlanders Blue
A selection with exceptionally blue or silvery-blue foliage that colors intensely during autumn.
Cord Grass
Spartina
Spartina alterniflora ( Smooth Cord Grass )
A rapid growing perennial grass, reaching up to 5 feet.
An excellent plant for use on the seashore.
Hardy zones 6 to 9 in full sun.
* photo of unknown internet source
Spartina patens ( Salt Meadow Hay )
A perenial reaching up to 3 feet, that is native to coastal habitats in eastern North America from Newfoundland to the Florida. It is excellent for use in controlling beach erosion.
Hardy zones 5 to 9 in full sun and is tolerant of both heat, wet soil and drought once established.
Spartina pectinata ( Prairie Cord Grass )
An arching perennial, reaching up to 6 feet ( 10 feet in bloom ). Do not use in confined areas as it is an aggressive rhizome spreader.
The leaf blades are flat and drooping.
The flower inflorescences are borne late summer to early autumn.
Hardy zones 3 to 9 in full sun to partial shade on moist soil.
* photo of unknown internet source
Aureomarginata ( Variegated Cord Grass )
An arching perennial grass, reaching up to 6 x 4+ feet with foliage that is variegated with a yellow margin. Otherwise similar.
Read More..
Spartina alterniflora ( Smooth Cord Grass )
A rapid growing perennial grass, reaching up to 5 feet.
An excellent plant for use on the seashore.
Hardy zones 6 to 9 in full sun.
* photo of unknown internet source
Spartina patens ( Salt Meadow Hay )
A perenial reaching up to 3 feet, that is native to coastal habitats in eastern North America from Newfoundland to the Florida. It is excellent for use in controlling beach erosion.
Hardy zones 5 to 9 in full sun and is tolerant of both heat, wet soil and drought once established.
Spartina pectinata ( Prairie Cord Grass )
An arching perennial, reaching up to 6 feet ( 10 feet in bloom ). Do not use in confined areas as it is an aggressive rhizome spreader.
The leaf blades are flat and drooping.
The flower inflorescences are borne late summer to early autumn.
Hardy zones 3 to 9 in full sun to partial shade on moist soil.
* photo of unknown internet source
Aureomarginata ( Variegated Cord Grass )
An arching perennial grass, reaching up to 6 x 4+ feet with foliage that is variegated with a yellow margin. Otherwise similar.
Thursday, March 6, 2014
5 Options to Create a Custom Outdoor Fire Pit
So you are thinking about building a custom fire pit in your backyard this spring? Well, you have just made the first successful step in creating a wonderful backyard for your friends and family to enjoy. There are several style options to consider when building your own fire pit and we will focus on five of these options in this blog.
1) Traditional Brick:
For a more traditional look when building a fire pit, consruct a circular or octagonal brick enclosure. Seal it using a traditional brick laying pattern held together with mortar. A brick fire pit works well on wither a lawn or patio.
2) Rustic Loose Stones:
For a more rustic and campfire look, assemble a number of loose stones, ranging in size from softball size to small boulders, around the fire enclosure. This variation of fire pit works best, for safety reasons, on open ground, not on a patio or terrace. Place the largest stones in a circle around the sides of your fire pit, then fill in gaps with the smaller stones. Click here for step-by-step instructions on creating a fire pit with loose stones.
3) Customized Pavers:
For a customized fire pit, you can use stone pavers that are traditionally used for installing patios or pathways, these concrete pavers are perfect for tying in and matching your existing patio with your new fire pit. They are available in several shapes, sizes and colors. They are easily installed and may not require mortar in certain instances, although we recommend mortar for the safety of the fire pit. Mortar will keep the pavers in place and if sealed correctly will eliminate fire from escaping out the sides. Besides, when not in use, if someone were to take a seat on the ledge of the fire pit, mortar will keep the fire pit in place and avoid it collapsing and/on injuring someone.
4) Landscaping Blocks:
Similar to customized pavers, landscaping blocks used to build retaining walls are a great way to build a circular, square or rectangular fire pit. Also available in many sizes, shapes and colors, landscaping blocks are laid in a similar fashion to brick with their joints staggered.
5) Aluminum Frames with Stone, Stucco or Faux Stone Finish:
Unfinished
Our personal favorite here at Warming Trends is the custom aluminum frame that is then finished off with Stone, Stucco or Faux Stone. We custom hand-build aluminum frames right here on site and then wrap them with fireproof concrete fiberboard. It is then up to you or your contractor to finish them off. These lightweight and sturdy frames are a great way to ensure that you have a safe, reliable and long-lasting fire pit investment. Here is what a finished aluminum frame fire pit can look like:
Finished
Click here for more examples.
So when you are in the market to create a new backyard centerpiece, also known as a custom fire pit, please check us out or call today. We will be happy to help with any questions or concerns you may have. 1-877-556-5255.
Read More..
1) Traditional Brick:
For a more traditional look when building a fire pit, consruct a circular or octagonal brick enclosure. Seal it using a traditional brick laying pattern held together with mortar. A brick fire pit works well on wither a lawn or patio.
2) Rustic Loose Stones:
For a more rustic and campfire look, assemble a number of loose stones, ranging in size from softball size to small boulders, around the fire enclosure. This variation of fire pit works best, for safety reasons, on open ground, not on a patio or terrace. Place the largest stones in a circle around the sides of your fire pit, then fill in gaps with the smaller stones. Click here for step-by-step instructions on creating a fire pit with loose stones.
3) Customized Pavers:
For a customized fire pit, you can use stone pavers that are traditionally used for installing patios or pathways, these concrete pavers are perfect for tying in and matching your existing patio with your new fire pit. They are available in several shapes, sizes and colors. They are easily installed and may not require mortar in certain instances, although we recommend mortar for the safety of the fire pit. Mortar will keep the pavers in place and if sealed correctly will eliminate fire from escaping out the sides. Besides, when not in use, if someone were to take a seat on the ledge of the fire pit, mortar will keep the fire pit in place and avoid it collapsing and/on injuring someone.
4) Landscaping Blocks:
Similar to customized pavers, landscaping blocks used to build retaining walls are a great way to build a circular, square or rectangular fire pit. Also available in many sizes, shapes and colors, landscaping blocks are laid in a similar fashion to brick with their joints staggered.
5) Aluminum Frames with Stone, Stucco or Faux Stone Finish:
Unfinished
Our personal favorite here at Warming Trends is the custom aluminum frame that is then finished off with Stone, Stucco or Faux Stone. We custom hand-build aluminum frames right here on site and then wrap them with fireproof concrete fiberboard. It is then up to you or your contractor to finish them off. These lightweight and sturdy frames are a great way to ensure that you have a safe, reliable and long-lasting fire pit investment. Here is what a finished aluminum frame fire pit can look like:
Finished
Click here for more examples.
So when you are in the market to create a new backyard centerpiece, also known as a custom fire pit, please check us out or call today. We will be happy to help with any questions or concerns you may have. 1-877-556-5255.
Water Saving Tips for Dry Climate Landscaping
- Use drought tolerant plants where summers are dry. Native plants are often an option however by careful - some plants even native to drought climates may not always be drought tolerant if they are found in the wild only along moist floodplain habitats. Non native plants from similar climates may also be used ( ex. southwestern Australia, Rome IT and Santiago CH have climates similar to Los Angeles CA.
- Install plants that need abundant water closest to the house where they
are easily watered, with xeric plants further out.
- Install landscape plants on a soil prepared at least to a foot deep with organic matter which works as a sponge absorbing and retaining moisture. A soil that is too shallow with hard pan clay or rock beneath will block downward penetration of roots making plants more drought tolerant. Soil used for lawns should also be tilled to 6 inches deep and mixed with topsoil or organic matter - lawns on topsoil that is too shallow will be a persistent yearly problem during dry summer weather and will require more water.
- Either forego lawns using xeric plants and stone mulch or use a drought tolerant grass such as Buffalo Grass or regionally adapted groundcover. Let lawns grow taller ( at least 3 inches ) during hot dry weather to cool and shade the soil - lawns cut too short will also be invaded and strangled by crabgrass which loves hot sunny weather. If you have a Fescue or Bluegrass lawn - apply a one time application of Milky Spore to protect the roots from grubs and do NOT use a high nitrogen fertilizer during hot or dry summer weather which can burn the plant.
Statistically...in the west 60 % of water consumed is used on lawns, in the east where there is more natural rainfall, that number is still far too high at 30 %.
There is enough lawns in the U.S. to fill the entire state of Nebraska.
- Use a mulch at a depth of 2 to 3 inches deep to cool and shade the soil, prevent soil temperature fluctuations, preserve moisture and prevent weeds. In dry climates a stone mulch is preferable as it does not need to be replaced yearly and is not flammable. Plants that are mulched almost always grow faster than if they were not mulched. During the summer, organic mulch can reduce the surface soil temperature by up to 6 degrees, and raise it slightly at night. Also, while bare soil can loose up to 3/4 of rainfall to run off and evaporation during summer, mulched surfaces will retain most of that.
- Use rain barrels to capture rainfall runoff from the roof. Run off from contrete and blacktop areas can be directed into landscape beds ( road salt run off during winter may be a problem making this a bad idea in some areas ).
-Water established plants deeply but not too frequently to encourage a deep drought resistant root system. Plants watered too frequently will often become more shallow rooted and prone to damage if the water suddenly stops ( and of course most watering bans occur during severe drought ).
- Do NOT use high nitrogen fertilizer on plants suffering from drought.
- Use drought tolerant, fast growing trees to shade and cool the landscape, especially along south facing walls ( ex. Mesquite in the desert southwest, many species of Oak or southern Pine in the southeast ). Do NOT use trees with greedy roots such as Poplar, Willow and Maple if you plan to grow ornamental plants beneath.
- If there is a watering ban and some plants cant be watered, it may be better to cut them back rather than let them wilt or sustain severe damage or death - this especially applies to perennials where it is better to loose the flowers and a few leaves than the entire plant.
- Water new plants well for the first 2 years until they are well established. Early fall planting is recommended in mild climates so that the roots can settle in and the plant can become somewhat established before severe heat and drought arrives the following summer. Dust bonemeal in the planting hole at planting time to encourage root growth - ( exception is Proteaceae family plants native to Australia which absolutely hate bonemeal ). Caution: marginally hardy perennials and some broadleaf evergreens are better planted during spring but early enough that they do not immediately get hit with hot weather.
- Water plants well before first hard freeze if there is a drought or the plants are growing where natural rainfall may be blocked such as against a wall or under a overhang. Broadleaf evergreens that do not soak up enough water before ground freeze may be dead by the time spring comes, especially if on a site with frequent cold and drying winds. It is also recommended to wrap broadleaf evergreens planted on windy sites with burlap during the first winter.
- Make a saucer around young plants ( especially on slopes ) that you can fill up with water twice during a watering to ensure the plant actually does get the needed amount of water. Remove the saucer during periods of wet weather of you may instead be encouraging root rot.
- Install new plants at the correct depth, which is usually equal to the depth as they were in the pot. I have personally seen landscapers install plants 2 or 3 inches above ground so that the mulch is level - this is a horrible idea and will likely cost any landscaper that does this abundant money in replacing dead plants.
- Trees on stilts WTF?! When I see this I usually think the landscaper or homeowner was too lazy to dig a hole to the correct depth. They tree will also require more water if it even survives the first summer.
- If you can think of any additional water saving tips - leave your comment beneath.
Dry Is Beautiful!
* photo of unknown internet source
Read More..
- Install plants that need abundant water closest to the house where they
are easily watered, with xeric plants further out.
- Install landscape plants on a soil prepared at least to a foot deep with organic matter which works as a sponge absorbing and retaining moisture. A soil that is too shallow with hard pan clay or rock beneath will block downward penetration of roots making plants more drought tolerant. Soil used for lawns should also be tilled to 6 inches deep and mixed with topsoil or organic matter - lawns on topsoil that is too shallow will be a persistent yearly problem during dry summer weather and will require more water.
- Either forego lawns using xeric plants and stone mulch or use a drought tolerant grass such as Buffalo Grass or regionally adapted groundcover. Let lawns grow taller ( at least 3 inches ) during hot dry weather to cool and shade the soil - lawns cut too short will also be invaded and strangled by crabgrass which loves hot sunny weather. If you have a Fescue or Bluegrass lawn - apply a one time application of Milky Spore to protect the roots from grubs and do NOT use a high nitrogen fertilizer during hot or dry summer weather which can burn the plant.
Statistically...in the west 60 % of water consumed is used on lawns, in the east where there is more natural rainfall, that number is still far too high at 30 %.
There is enough lawns in the U.S. to fill the entire state of Nebraska.
- Use a mulch at a depth of 2 to 3 inches deep to cool and shade the soil, prevent soil temperature fluctuations, preserve moisture and prevent weeds. In dry climates a stone mulch is preferable as it does not need to be replaced yearly and is not flammable. Plants that are mulched almost always grow faster than if they were not mulched. During the summer, organic mulch can reduce the surface soil temperature by up to 6 degrees, and raise it slightly at night. Also, while bare soil can loose up to 3/4 of rainfall to run off and evaporation during summer, mulched surfaces will retain most of that.
- Use rain barrels to capture rainfall runoff from the roof. Run off from contrete and blacktop areas can be directed into landscape beds ( road salt run off during winter may be a problem making this a bad idea in some areas ).
-Water established plants deeply but not too frequently to encourage a deep drought resistant root system. Plants watered too frequently will often become more shallow rooted and prone to damage if the water suddenly stops ( and of course most watering bans occur during severe drought ).
- Do NOT use high nitrogen fertilizer on plants suffering from drought.
- Use drought tolerant, fast growing trees to shade and cool the landscape, especially along south facing walls ( ex. Mesquite in the desert southwest, many species of Oak or southern Pine in the southeast ). Do NOT use trees with greedy roots such as Poplar, Willow and Maple if you plan to grow ornamental plants beneath.
- If there is a watering ban and some plants cant be watered, it may be better to cut them back rather than let them wilt or sustain severe damage or death - this especially applies to perennials where it is better to loose the flowers and a few leaves than the entire plant.
- Water new plants well for the first 2 years until they are well established. Early fall planting is recommended in mild climates so that the roots can settle in and the plant can become somewhat established before severe heat and drought arrives the following summer. Dust bonemeal in the planting hole at planting time to encourage root growth - ( exception is Proteaceae family plants native to Australia which absolutely hate bonemeal ). Caution: marginally hardy perennials and some broadleaf evergreens are better planted during spring but early enough that they do not immediately get hit with hot weather.
- Water plants well before first hard freeze if there is a drought or the plants are growing where natural rainfall may be blocked such as against a wall or under a overhang. Broadleaf evergreens that do not soak up enough water before ground freeze may be dead by the time spring comes, especially if on a site with frequent cold and drying winds. It is also recommended to wrap broadleaf evergreens planted on windy sites with burlap during the first winter.
- Make a saucer around young plants ( especially on slopes ) that you can fill up with water twice during a watering to ensure the plant actually does get the needed amount of water. Remove the saucer during periods of wet weather of you may instead be encouraging root rot.
- Install new plants at the correct depth, which is usually equal to the depth as they were in the pot. I have personally seen landscapers install plants 2 or 3 inches above ground so that the mulch is level - this is a horrible idea and will likely cost any landscaper that does this abundant money in replacing dead plants.
- Trees on stilts WTF?! When I see this I usually think the landscaper or homeowner was too lazy to dig a hole to the correct depth. They tree will also require more water if it even survives the first summer.
- If you can think of any additional water saving tips - leave your comment beneath.
Dry Is Beautiful!
* photo of unknown internet source
2008 final year portfolios
Having looked through some of the portfolios from last years Kingston graduates, I particularly liked Diana Lees.
http://www.dlee.moonfruit.com/
The site has a playful and interactive quality which makes it considerably more enjoyable to navigate.
However, as with many of the moonfruit websites the actual display of the work is too small making small texts and images more difficult to digest.
James Richer also has a well presented site
http://www.jricher.moonfruit.com/
as does Matt Parker, who has included animations, music and video which make the site very unique and considerably more engaging. Again however the actual pieces of work are too small to view properly due to the moonfruit limitations
http://www.mparker.moonfruit.com/
Read More..
http://www.dlee.moonfruit.com/
The site has a playful and interactive quality which makes it considerably more enjoyable to navigate.
However, as with many of the moonfruit websites the actual display of the work is too small making small texts and images more difficult to digest.
James Richer also has a well presented site
http://www.jricher.moonfruit.com/
as does Matt Parker, who has included animations, music and video which make the site very unique and considerably more engaging. Again however the actual pieces of work are too small to view properly due to the moonfruit limitations
http://www.mparker.moonfruit.com/
Wednesday, March 5, 2014
Mountain Mint
Pycnanthemum
A genus of perennials that are related to Mints and especially Monarda. The flowers are very attractive to butterflies.
They are generally deer resistant. I
Pycnanthemum californicum ( Sierra Mint )
A perennial, reaching up to 40 inches in height, that is native to brushland and forest in the hills and mountains of California.
The lance-shaped to oval leaves are slightly over an inch in length and are oppositely arranged.
The flowers are white.
* photo of unknown internet source
Pycnanthemum flexuosum ( Savanna Mountain Mint )
A rhizomatous perennial, reaching a maximum size of 3 x 4 feet, that is native to open woods and prairies in eastern North America ( Mississippi to Virginia; south to Florida ). It is highly localized and endangered in Mississippi and Alabama.
The aromatic, slender leaves are luxuriant, mid-green. The foliage often develops reddish tones during autumn.
The abundant, white ( with purple speckles ) flowers are borne all summer long. The flowers are highly attractive to butterflies.
Hardy zones 6 ( 5b if protected ) to 9 in full sun to partial shade on acidic, well drained soil. It is easy to grow and drought tolerant.
Pycnanthemum incanum ( Hoary Mountain Mint )
A vigorous, rhizomatous spreading perennial, reaching a maximum size of 6 x 4 ( rarely over 4 ) feet, that is native to eastern North America ( Michigan to New Hampshire; south to Mississippi to northern Florida ) where it is usually found in sandy or rocky woods. It is endangered in Ontario ( grows in Oak savannah near Burlington ), Vermont and New Hampshire.
The white flowers are borne on dense heads, up to 12 inches across, from mid summer to early autumn.
The stems are covered in white down.
Hardy zones 3 to 9 in partial shade.
* photos taken on Aug 25 2013 @ University of Maryland, College Park
* photos taken on Oct 17 2013 in Olney, MD
Pycnanthemum muticum ( Short-toothed Mountain Mint )
A perennial, reaching up to 3.3 ( reports of 5 ) x 3 feet, that is native to meadows and moist woodlands in eastern North America ( from northern Illinois to Michigan to Vermont; south to Louisiana to Georgia. It is endangered in Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, New York, Vermont, West Virginia and Delaware. It is NOT invasive unlike its true Mint ( Mentha ) relatives.
The foliage is aromatic and can be used for making tea. Rubbing the leaves on the skin also repels mosquitos.
The fragrant, light pink flowers are borne in dense clusters. The bracts persist all summer long into early autumn. The flowers are very attractive to butterflies and honey bees.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in full sun to partial shade on consistent moist, well drained soil. Cut back during early summer to encourage dense habit.
Pycnanthemum pilosum
A vigorous, rhizomatous perennial, reaching a maximum height of 5 feet, that is native to prairies and open woodlands the central & eastern U.S. ( from eastern Nebraska, northern Iowa to Michigan & Ontario to Massachussetts; south to northern Georgia..excluding Virginia and the Carolinas ). It has become extinct in West Virginia and New York State and can be considered highly localized or endangered anywhere north and east of Illinois.
The minty aromatic, soft, woolly, small leaves, up to 3 x 0.7 inches, are deep green.
The showy, white to pink ( spotted purple ) flowers are borne on dense terminal clusters over a very long season from early summer until autumn frost.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in full sun to partial shade on well drained soil.
Pycnanthemum tenuifolium ( Slender-Leaf Mountain Mint )
A perennial, reaching a maximum size of 4 x 3 ( rarely over 3 ) feet, that is native to open woods and prairies in eastern North America ( Minnesota to Ontario to Maine; south to Kansas to eastern Texas to Georgia ).
The aromatic, slender leaves are luxuriant, mid-green.
The white ( with purple speckles ) flowers are borne all summer long. The flowers are highly attractive to butterflies.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in full sun to partial shade on acidic, well drained soil. It is easy to grow and drought tolerant.
* photo taken on July 10 2013 in Howard Co., MD
* photos taken on Aug 25 2013 @ University of Maryland, College Park
Pycnanthemum virginianum ( Virginia Mountain Mint )
A vigorous, rhizomatous perennial, reaching a maximum size of 6 x 4 + feet, that is native to eastern North America ( from North Dakota to Maine; south to Oklahoma to North Carolina. It is now extinct in Ontario, Canada where it was once found in sandy oak savannah. Some records include: 1 st year - x 2 feet.
The lance-shaped leaves, up to 5 inches in length, are deep green.
The showy bracts and fragrant, lavender ( spotted lilac ) flowers are borne mid summer to early autumn.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in partial shade.
* photo of unknown internet source
Read More..
A genus of perennials that are related to Mints and especially Monarda. The flowers are very attractive to butterflies.
They are generally deer resistant. I
Pycnanthemum californicum ( Sierra Mint )
A perennial, reaching up to 40 inches in height, that is native to brushland and forest in the hills and mountains of California.
The lance-shaped to oval leaves are slightly over an inch in length and are oppositely arranged.
The flowers are white.
* photo of unknown internet source
Pycnanthemum flexuosum ( Savanna Mountain Mint )
A rhizomatous perennial, reaching a maximum size of 3 x 4 feet, that is native to open woods and prairies in eastern North America ( Mississippi to Virginia; south to Florida ). It is highly localized and endangered in Mississippi and Alabama.
The aromatic, slender leaves are luxuriant, mid-green. The foliage often develops reddish tones during autumn.
The abundant, white ( with purple speckles ) flowers are borne all summer long. The flowers are highly attractive to butterflies.
Hardy zones 6 ( 5b if protected ) to 9 in full sun to partial shade on acidic, well drained soil. It is easy to grow and drought tolerant.
Pycnanthemum incanum ( Hoary Mountain Mint )
A vigorous, rhizomatous spreading perennial, reaching a maximum size of 6 x 4 ( rarely over 4 ) feet, that is native to eastern North America ( Michigan to New Hampshire; south to Mississippi to northern Florida ) where it is usually found in sandy or rocky woods. It is endangered in Ontario ( grows in Oak savannah near Burlington ), Vermont and New Hampshire.
The white flowers are borne on dense heads, up to 12 inches across, from mid summer to early autumn.
The stems are covered in white down.
Hardy zones 3 to 9 in partial shade.
* photos taken on Aug 25 2013 @ University of Maryland, College Park
* photos taken on Oct 17 2013 in Olney, MD
Pycnanthemum muticum ( Short-toothed Mountain Mint )
A perennial, reaching up to 3.3 ( reports of 5 ) x 3 feet, that is native to meadows and moist woodlands in eastern North America ( from northern Illinois to Michigan to Vermont; south to Louisiana to Georgia. It is endangered in Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, New York, Vermont, West Virginia and Delaware. It is NOT invasive unlike its true Mint ( Mentha ) relatives.
The foliage is aromatic and can be used for making tea. Rubbing the leaves on the skin also repels mosquitos.
The fragrant, light pink flowers are borne in dense clusters. The bracts persist all summer long into early autumn. The flowers are very attractive to butterflies and honey bees.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in full sun to partial shade on consistent moist, well drained soil. Cut back during early summer to encourage dense habit.
Pycnanthemum pilosum
A vigorous, rhizomatous perennial, reaching a maximum height of 5 feet, that is native to prairies and open woodlands the central & eastern U.S. ( from eastern Nebraska, northern Iowa to Michigan & Ontario to Massachussetts; south to northern Georgia..excluding Virginia and the Carolinas ). It has become extinct in West Virginia and New York State and can be considered highly localized or endangered anywhere north and east of Illinois.
The minty aromatic, soft, woolly, small leaves, up to 3 x 0.7 inches, are deep green.
The showy, white to pink ( spotted purple ) flowers are borne on dense terminal clusters over a very long season from early summer until autumn frost.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in full sun to partial shade on well drained soil.
Pycnanthemum tenuifolium ( Slender-Leaf Mountain Mint )
A perennial, reaching a maximum size of 4 x 3 ( rarely over 3 ) feet, that is native to open woods and prairies in eastern North America ( Minnesota to Ontario to Maine; south to Kansas to eastern Texas to Georgia ).
The aromatic, slender leaves are luxuriant, mid-green.
The white ( with purple speckles ) flowers are borne all summer long. The flowers are highly attractive to butterflies.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in full sun to partial shade on acidic, well drained soil. It is easy to grow and drought tolerant.
* photo taken on July 10 2013 in Howard Co., MD
* photos taken on Aug 25 2013 @ University of Maryland, College Park
Pycnanthemum virginianum ( Virginia Mountain Mint )
A vigorous, rhizomatous perennial, reaching a maximum size of 6 x 4 + feet, that is native to eastern North America ( from North Dakota to Maine; south to Oklahoma to North Carolina. It is now extinct in Ontario, Canada where it was once found in sandy oak savannah. Some records include: 1 st year - x 2 feet.
The lance-shaped leaves, up to 5 inches in length, are deep green.
The showy bracts and fragrant, lavender ( spotted lilac ) flowers are borne mid summer to early autumn.
Hardy zones 3 to 7 in partial shade.
* photo of unknown internet source
Berry Producing Shrubs Color in the Landscape
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| Berry Producing Shrubs |
There are a variety of wonderful berry producing shrubs that can add color and interest to the landscape. Some of these shrubs include Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo), Ilex Nellie R. Stevens (Nellie Stevens Holly), Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape Holly), Barberry Rosy Glow (Rosy Glow Barberry), Ilex verticillata (Winterberry) and Callicarpa Americana (Beauty Bush). All of these shrubs add color and interest to the landscape throughout the different seasons and are an important food source for birds as well.
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| Callicarpa Americana (Beauty Bush) |
Callicarpa Americana or Beauty Bush is known for its beautiful purple berries produced in fall on open cascading branches. It is a native to North America and is enjoyed by many as an addition to the natural garden. This plant is deciduous, is hardy to USDA zones 7-10 and does best in full sun to partial shade.
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| Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo) |
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| Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape Holly) |
Another interesting plant is Mahonia aquifolium or Oregon Grape Holly. Known for its purple-blue grape-like berries in summer preceded by yellow blooms in spring it makes a nice addition to the natural garden. Mahonia is a bold broadleaf evergreen shrub with deep green summer foliage and deep burgundy-bronze winter foliage. It has a holly appearance but is related to the barberry. Mahonia grows to 3-6 feet tall and wide and is hardy to USDA Zone 5.
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| Ilex Nellie R. Stevens (Nellie Stevens Holly) |
If you are looking for more of a privacy screening then Ilex Nellie Stevens or Nellie Stevens Holly may be the plant for you. This holly has a showy dark green glossy foliage and produces bright red berries throughout fall and winter. Ilex Nellie Stevens grows to 15-25 in height by approximately 10 feet in width and is hardy to USDA Zone 6. It prefers to be grown in full to partial sun with afternoon shade and keeps its beautiful deep green foliage throughout the winter.
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| Barberris Rosy Glow (Rosy Glow Barberry) in Winter |
Barberris thunbergii Rosy Glow (Rosy Glow Barberry) is a deciduous berry producing shrub growing 2-3 feet tall that exhibits bright burgundy foliage throughout the entire summer followed by bright red berries throughout winter that are a favorite food for your winter bird friends. The initial foliage of this plant is a purplish color mottled with pink to red splotches that matures into a deep burgundy followed by insignificant yellow flowers and red berries. There are many forms of barberry including Barberris Royal Burgundy, a smaller version growing 1-2 feet in height and a personal favorite! Barberry is hardy in USDA Zones 4-8 and prefers to be grown in full sun.
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| Ilex verticillata (Winterberry) |
Ilex verticillata or Winterberry is native to the eastern portion of North America and southeastern portion of Canada and is hardy in zones USDA 3-9. It is one of the deciduous forms of holly growing 5-15 feet tall, preferring partial shade and moist conditions. The attractive red fruits of winterberry are a food source to many small mammals and more than 48 species of birds. It is commonly used in landscaping in its native northeastern location and provides nice winter interest. Winterberry is not self pollinating so its does require one male plant per group of females in order for the females to produce their vibrant berries.
Color and interest can be achieved in the landscape throughout the entire year. Try incorporating any of these berry-producing plants into your garden and enjoy the benefits they have to offer. You will experience vibrant color in your landscape and all season interest while providing a natural food source for your feathered visitors!
Do you have a favorite berry-producing plant in your garden? If so what is the name of the plant, what area or zone is it hardy in and give a brief description of its attributes. Thanks in advance for sharing. Happy gardening!
Author: Lee @A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved.
Landscaping Ideas Backyard
Landscaping Ideas Backyard
Landscaping Ideas Backyard
Dare to embody different with roughly fresh backyard landscaping ideas. Backyard landscaping ideas are legion and hind end be used to transform a common old block of land into something quite marvelous.
Backyard Landscaping Ideas one - Spanish elan Vertical Garden
A erect garden will really make your backyard landscaping ideas come to life. Now you can look at a clean wall as if you are an artist about to create vitamin A work of art. The white fence in is your dummy examine you will transmute into a beautiful living picture of pots and flowering plants that bathroom shift into ampere riot of distort whole years round.
Spanish flair flowers kitty holders are available that are specially designed to carry plastic surgery terracotta pots operating room even wickerwork work conical baskets. Spanish style flowers batch holders will throw antiophthalmic factor really season of the Mediterranean. Spanish flair flowers pot holders are elysian by the narrow wind alleyways of Southern Spain.
The Best of Spanish manner flowers peck holders:
* Strong (being made of modest steel and last for years)
* useable
Landscaping Ideas Backyard
Landscaping Ideas Backyard
in different sizes
* Simple and easy to handle
Backyard Landscaping Ideas 2 - Feng Shui Style Garden
In Chinese gardens feng shui is an fundamental cistron throughout many Formosan gardens. Feng Shui garden landscape designs mostly incorporate mountain (Shan) and piddle (Shui) energy since the basic of Chinese gardens originated from the nontextual matter form called Shan Shui meaning mountain-water
Mountain vigour symbolizes good health harmony and stability. It is yang strong hard grandiloquent and vertical. unity can discover this energy in actual mountains higher terrain and mounds. Virtual mountain zip dismiss be realized in boulders raised planting beds and walls.
Backyard Landscaping Ideas 3 - Patio Backyard Design.
There are III type of Patio Backyard Design - out-of-doors patios patios that are enclosed and patio that is placed right outside Oregon affiliated properly your home. Open patio utilized your homes outside space away decorating it with dissimilar materials and with furniture whereas atomic number 49 shut patio fundamentally use walls usually specs wall or sliding wall. The terminal one of patio project ideas - patio that is located right outside or connected rightfield your home. The good thing about this patio blueprint is you can easily channelize inside your home and so to your patio and vice versa since it is really accessible.
Backyard Landscaping Ideas tetrad - Japanese Backyard Garden
Japanese water gardens are popularly called every bit koi ponds. Before building these gardens you should think nearly the fabric to glucinium used for building them. Some of the great building elements which can aid you in designing group A pleasant rude garden are Bamboo screens high I. F. Stone walls and weatherworn wood. Other than that you give the sack choose miniature gardening which admit bonsai tree and pee elements (ponds).
Backyard Landscaping Ideas quintuplet - leafage Garden
Foliage Garden is the flowerless garden. Do you realize that flowers arent the just things that can bring color to your backyard? People constantly talk about the rose garden the dahlia bed the wildflower meadow when they thinks about garden but they ever seems to lecture much just about the leaves. But if you look backward at the timber garden inward summer no flowers in that respect are only ferns and heuchera and other leafy things. The fact is leafage garden can be beautiful substitute of garden which lie of flower.
Once you throw your backyard landscape ideas you can start fashioning a plan on how to achieve your backyard goal. If youre preparation to landscape your backyard take time to range through every bit many different backyard landscaping ideas as you can to find ideas that not lonesome look good but set your personal needs too. No need to wastefulness your time. Get some backyard landscape ideas and cat valium your domicile now.For further critical review of backyard garden pictures only chatter my internet site at gardenlandscapingideas.org.
Landscaping Ideas Backyard
Landscaping Ideas Backyard
Relate Tag : Landscaping Ideas Backyard,Landscaping Ideas Backyard Pictures,Pictures Of Backyards,Landscaping Pictures Backyard,Backyard Video
Tuesday, March 4, 2014
Oat Grass
Arrhenatherum bulbosum ( Bulbous Oat Grass )
Also called A elatius.
Variegatum
Forms a clump up to 2 feet with white variegated foliage.
Looks great in the landscape when massed.
Hardy zones 4 to 9 in full sun to partial shade.
Arrhenatherum calamagrostis ( Silver Spike Grass )
A stunning perennial grass, reaching up to 3 x 3 feet, that is native to Europe.
The spectaular silvery-green flowers are borne on abundant spikes during the summer.
They turn to tawny-brown during autumn.
Hardy zones 5 to 8 in full sun on well drained soil. Clay tolerant. It thrives in the Rocky Mountains but does not enjoy the hot humid east, especially where nights are warm.
Read More..
Also called A elatius.
Variegatum
Forms a clump up to 2 feet with white variegated foliage.
Looks great in the landscape when massed.
Hardy zones 4 to 9 in full sun to partial shade.
Arrhenatherum calamagrostis ( Silver Spike Grass )
A stunning perennial grass, reaching up to 3 x 3 feet, that is native to Europe.
The spectaular silvery-green flowers are borne on abundant spikes during the summer.
They turn to tawny-brown during autumn.
Hardy zones 5 to 8 in full sun on well drained soil. Clay tolerant. It thrives in the Rocky Mountains but does not enjoy the hot humid east, especially where nights are warm.
Sciadopitys Japanese Umbrella Pine
Sciadopitys verticillata
The single species in this genus of conifers and is native to the mountains of Japan though before the last ice age was found throughout the Northern Hemisphere. Though found in cultivation in temperate climates throughout the world; Sciadopitys - Japanese Umbrella Pine is endangered in the wild despite being on earth over 230 million years.
Very slow growing at first reaching only about 12 inches in height after 4 years; the Japanese Umbrella Pine after 6 years reaches a more typical rate of growth for a conifer reaching an average of 6 x 4 feet in height in 10 years though the record is 22 x 10 feet in 13 years ( from installed 3 foot tree ); 20 years - 30 x 10 feet; 50 years - 60 feet and is known to reach up to 3 feet in trunk diameter in 96 years.
On average or less than ideal sizes, this tree grows steadily at about 6 inches per year and on the best of sites is still never a fast growing tree. The Japanese Umbrella Pine however can be very long lived lasting for centuries and exceeding 80 feet. The largest trees ever recorded reach almost 200 feet in height and up to 10 feet in trunk diameter, reaching up to 1200 years in age. Reasonably large trees grow at Westtown near Philly, PA. Sciadopitys almost always grow neat and pyramidal and pruning is rarely necessary. Typically branches to the ground; forest grown trees grow taller and thinner.
The leaves or needles ( not spiny ) are arranged spirally in umbrella like clusters at the end of the shoots and give a "prehistoric effect". They are deep, glossy green and up to 6 inches in length. The leaves last up to 3 years.
The red brown seed cones resemble small pine cones ripening in 2 years; and male and female flowers are borne in the same tree.
The rich red brown bark peels in long, vertical strips.
Preferring moist, fertile, acidic to neutral sites; the Japanese Umbrella Pine is tolerant of drought, heat, ice, wind, and storms but not pollution, flooding and alkaline soils. It is not really tolerant of sites that are both hot and dry. It prefers warm, humid summers and is easy to grow in temperate climates with adequate rainfall. This tree is well adapted to most of the eastern U.S. Pruning is rarely needed other than possibly removing a secondary leader if the leading shoot actually does fork which is rare.
Propagation is from seed though they do need to be stratified and then chilled for a 3 month period before sowing. Hardy from zones 5 to 9 with reports of 4 on protected sites. It is reported as hardy in Wisconsin.
Though it can be very expensive; a properly plants and cared for Japanese Umbrella Pine used as a specimum plant can be truly spectacular. This is one of my favorite conifers so of course Id have to rate this extremely beautiful conifer a 10 / 10
* photo taken on March 2004 @ McCrillis Gardens, Bethesda, MD
* photo taken on April 11 2010 @ U.S. National Arboretum
* photo taken on May 8 2010 @ McCrillis Gardens, Bethesda, MD
* photo taken on June 1 2010 in Columbia, MD
* photo taken on May 16 2011 in Washington, D.C.
* photo taken on Aug 25 2011 @ Scott Arboretum, Swarthmore, PA
* photos taken on Nov 27 2012 in Columbia, MD
Wintergreen
Identical except the foliage stays luxuriant deep green even in winter.
Read More..
The single species in this genus of conifers and is native to the mountains of Japan though before the last ice age was found throughout the Northern Hemisphere. Though found in cultivation in temperate climates throughout the world; Sciadopitys - Japanese Umbrella Pine is endangered in the wild despite being on earth over 230 million years.
Very slow growing at first reaching only about 12 inches in height after 4 years; the Japanese Umbrella Pine after 6 years reaches a more typical rate of growth for a conifer reaching an average of 6 x 4 feet in height in 10 years though the record is 22 x 10 feet in 13 years ( from installed 3 foot tree ); 20 years - 30 x 10 feet; 50 years - 60 feet and is known to reach up to 3 feet in trunk diameter in 96 years.
On average or less than ideal sizes, this tree grows steadily at about 6 inches per year and on the best of sites is still never a fast growing tree. The Japanese Umbrella Pine however can be very long lived lasting for centuries and exceeding 80 feet. The largest trees ever recorded reach almost 200 feet in height and up to 10 feet in trunk diameter, reaching up to 1200 years in age. Reasonably large trees grow at Westtown near Philly, PA. Sciadopitys almost always grow neat and pyramidal and pruning is rarely necessary. Typically branches to the ground; forest grown trees grow taller and thinner.
The leaves or needles ( not spiny ) are arranged spirally in umbrella like clusters at the end of the shoots and give a "prehistoric effect". They are deep, glossy green and up to 6 inches in length. The leaves last up to 3 years.
The red brown seed cones resemble small pine cones ripening in 2 years; and male and female flowers are borne in the same tree.
The rich red brown bark peels in long, vertical strips.
Preferring moist, fertile, acidic to neutral sites; the Japanese Umbrella Pine is tolerant of drought, heat, ice, wind, and storms but not pollution, flooding and alkaline soils. It is not really tolerant of sites that are both hot and dry. It prefers warm, humid summers and is easy to grow in temperate climates with adequate rainfall. This tree is well adapted to most of the eastern U.S. Pruning is rarely needed other than possibly removing a secondary leader if the leading shoot actually does fork which is rare.
Propagation is from seed though they do need to be stratified and then chilled for a 3 month period before sowing. Hardy from zones 5 to 9 with reports of 4 on protected sites. It is reported as hardy in Wisconsin.
Though it can be very expensive; a properly plants and cared for Japanese Umbrella Pine used as a specimum plant can be truly spectacular. This is one of my favorite conifers so of course Id have to rate this extremely beautiful conifer a 10 / 10
* photo taken on March 2004 @ McCrillis Gardens, Bethesda, MD
* photo taken on April 11 2010 @ U.S. National Arboretum
* photo taken on May 8 2010 @ McCrillis Gardens, Bethesda, MD
* photo taken on June 1 2010 in Columbia, MD
* photo taken on May 16 2011 in Washington, D.C.
* photo taken on Aug 25 2011 @ Scott Arboretum, Swarthmore, PA
* photos taken on Nov 27 2012 in Columbia, MD
Wintergreen
Identical except the foliage stays luxuriant deep green even in winter.
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